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After many months of trying to find a time that worked for both of our crazy schedules, Alex Johnson and I finally sat down and had a conversation about her climbing, training, eating, and other aspects of her life.
Alex Johnson is an athlete on The North Face team, and she travels the world as a professional climber. She has some V12 ascents under her belt, she's a 2-time world cup winner and 5-time national champ. She's currently living in Las Vegas, but before that she was living out of her RV, following the good weather to her favorite bouldering areas. She spent a lot of time this winter in Bishop trying The Swarm, a V13/V14, which we talk about in the interview.
I've always been a fan of Alex Johnson, and I remember watching her at The Spot competing when she was just a kid really. Her confidence and poise, as well as her incredible strength, have always impressed me.
What We Talked About
- Her biggest accomplishments and biggest failures as a climber
- Which training styles have worked for her and which have not
- What it was like for her to train with the Euros
- How she's training for Vail this year (it's a secret so don't tell anyone)
- How her diet affects her climbing (if at all)
- Whether or not her hard ascents have been downgraded because she's a female
- How she balances being friends and fierce competitors with Angie, Puccio and the other girls
- Alex's website is www.aj-ontherocks.blogspot.com
- Alex on Facebook: www.facebook.com/alexjohnsonclimber
- An article in Rock & Ice about Alex's negative experience training in Europe: "Unbroken: The Alex Johnson Profile"
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Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings
Portrait of Alex Johnson by Forest Woodward
Thanks for listening!